Slipcover fabrics should be medium-weight—not too heavy.  There will be many layers of fabric (plus welting) where seams join—so heavy chenilles & velvets won’t work.

Textured fabrics such as twills, rep weaves, damasks & denim add visual interest & resist wrinkling.  Cotton duck & sailcloth also make up nicely.  Linen or linen blends are guaranteed to wrinkle—which may be desirable, or not!

Slipcover fabrics should be tightly constructed & in a color that doesn’t reveal the upholstery fabric beneath. 

Slipcovers are usually made with self-welting (same fabric) or with contrast welting.  A contrast welt will draw attention to the lines of your furniture.  If using a contrast color welting, look for a similar weave & weight as in the slipcover fabric. 

If your furniture has matching side pillows, use a contrast welting or brush fringe for visual interest—even if using self-welting on the body of the slipcover.

Slipcover fabrics should not have a latex backing; it will cause the slipcover fabric to buckle & wrinkle instead of sliding over the fabric beneath it for a smooth fit. 

Slipcovers are best suited to fully-upholstered furniture, rather than furniture with exposed wood frames.  The wood frame will be felt beneath the slipcover, unless it is designed to tie-on like a pinafore, instead of covering the frame like a dress. 

Slipcovers will change the look, but not the sit or comfort of the furniture beneath.  Although slipcovers will not fix sagging cushions or broken springs, ask the workroom for new foam &/or Dacron wrap to renew cushions.

Slipcovers can be short and flirty—they don’t have to go to the floor. You’ll save on fabric if your sofa is suited to a slipcover without a skirt, or if a dining chair can be made with a short pleated or shirred skirt.  Wing chairs can also be slipcovered without a skirt; a little flap of fabric is sewn to the slipcover, then held in place beneath the frame with staples or Velcro.